Cycling through the heart of Britain's camping heritage, I embarked on a journey that paid homage to the pioneers of outdoor exploration. From Oxford to Surrey, I followed in the footsteps of Thomas Hiram Holding, the visionary behind the Camping and Caravanning Club (CCC). This trip wasn't just about cycling; it was a celebration of the club's 125th anniversary and a chance to experience the evolution of camping, from the early days of safety cycles and homemade tents to the modern era of e-bikes and glamping.
The CCC's origins can be traced back to the Association of Cycle Campers, founded by Holding in 1901. His passion for camping was ignited by a childhood adventure in North America, and he later embraced the tandem bike camping trend in Britain. Holding's influence extended beyond the club; he invented essential camping gear, from lightweight tents to cycle touring bags, understanding the profound health benefits of outdoor living.
My journey began in Oxford, where I rented an e-bike from Bainton Bikes, ready to explore the city's hidden gems. I followed National Cycle Route 57, passing through picturesque landscapes and quaint towns. The first stop was Radnage, home to Bella Vista Camping, a family-run site nestled on the Chiltern Cycleway. Here, I savored a quiet night's rest, with my bike battery charging alongside.
Continuing eastward, I encountered the Old Fisherman in Wheatley and Thame, where I refueled with a sandwich and coffee. The Phoenix Trail, part of Route 57, offered a smooth glide through the countryside, reminiscent of its former life as a railway track. I passed by the remnants of Towersey Halt, a station closed since 1963, and admired the beauty of red kites against the sky.
The journey took an intriguing turn as I ventured south, leaving the Chilterns behind. I navigated country lanes, passing through the bustling towns of Marlow and Cookham, and enjoyed the serenity of narrow cycle paths between Maidenhead and Eton. A delightful lunch at the Crocus Cafe in Dorney sparked curiosity about my unusual travel setup.
Windsor Great Park emerged as an unexpected highlight, with its easy roads contrasting the challenging gravel tracks of Egham. The designated bike lanes through Staines and Chertsey made the final stretch a breeze. I concluded my journey with a ferry crossing over the Thames at Shepperton, a fitting end to my adventure.
At the CCC's Walton-on-Thames campsite, I encountered a mix of motorhomes and caravans, with a nod to the past in the form of a small hut filled with sepia photographs of tents from a century ago. I opted for a dry-powder toilet, adding an eco-friendly touch to my stay. Holding's 'Campers Handbook' offered a glimpse into the past, with its description of female campers' attire, a stark contrast to my modern-day leggings.
One of Holding's favorite activities, canoeing, became my next adventure. With the help of Hampton Court Paddle Sports, I swapped pedals for oars and spent a leisurely day on the water. I enjoyed a falafel break at Mezzet Box and ended the day at the Anglers, a historic pub built in 1870, with my canoe tied up beside my table.
Reflecting on the past 125 years, it's clear that camping has evolved significantly. Tents have transformed, bicycles have given way to campervans, and even the Thames has been rerouted. Yet, amidst the changes, the essence of camping remains. The CCC's membership has grown from 150 to over 300,000 households, and while cycle camping is a minority pursuit, it continues to inspire curiosity and adventure.
As I returned my e-bike to Bainton Bikes, I realized that the best journeys are indeed fueled by pedals and curiosity. The CCC's legacy lives on, inviting us to explore the hidden passageways of towns and cities, and to embrace the spirit of adventure that Thomas Hiram Holding so passionately advocated.
